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Oak It and Smoke It (Smoked Salmon)

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OAK IT AND SMOKE IT

To oak or not to oak? As wine trends come and go, the debate goes on. Oak can definitely add a flavour and structural complexity to wine and overused can detract from the flavours and structure of the wine. Don’t view oak as good or bad, but as merely a tool that used well will benefit a variety of different wines. It is up to the winemaker and I will leave that in the fine hands of the professionals.

One thing is true, however, oak will add a bitter component to wine (not in an unpleasant way). Similarly, the smoking process will add a bitter component to foods. Have you noticed that Pinot Gris is recommended with poached salmon, but an oaked Chardonnay is often recommended with smoked salmon? This is because the bitter component in the food will soften the bitter component in the wine, allowing the flavours to come forward on the palate. This is true for white and red wine…and rose too.

So, how about this? A full-bodied, oaked Portuguese red with smoked salmon. Yep, this works, because the bitterness (in the form of tannin) will be softened in the wine allowing the fruit to become prominent. It’s a great pairing.

Here are my wine recommendations:


Traditional Pairing:

Château du Cray Montagny 1er Cru 2002

A great Chardonnay from Burgundy. Lovely notes of pear, peach and citrus, balanced with subtle earth, mineral and smoky notes. It shows a lovely balanced acidity and is complex and lengthy on the palate.

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Not So Traditional Pairing:

Quinta do Vallado Douro Tinto 2003

Flavours of dark berry fruits, with hints of smoke, earth and notes of floral aromatics shining through on the long finish. It’s big, it’s pretty and it can definitely stay the night!

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Paul Watkin


 
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